Big Stitch Basket

I have had so much fun collaborating with Mama Knows Luxury on these projects. I got the idea for a table basket after I made the placemats. You can use it for napkins, silverware, you name it. But me? You know I am using my basket for my needles and hooks. It works up super easy and is another great introduction to Big Stitch Merino if you want a small project to get your feet wet.

Supply List:
Mama Knows Luxury  1lb Bulky Merino per basket
Felting Needle & Felting Pad Kit
40 mm Extreme Hook (optional

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Also see Stitch & Hustle Blog for Technique Tips to felt the ends
Each Basket is 7” diameter approx. x 7” height

Start with a magic circle. Now, because of the bulk of the wool, you want to create a SMALL magic circle and have a VERY short tail.

Round 1:  ch 1, then 5 sc into your magic circle, do not JOIN the round

Round 2:  2sc in each sc of round 1, sl st to first sc to join & complete round round

Round 3:  ch 1, 2sc in first sc of round 2, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* / Repeat * to *  sl st to first sc to join & complete round round

Round 4: ch 1, sc in back loop only all the way around until you have just about 4 inches of yarn left

Then hand weave the tail in.
Take your felting kit and hand felt the end to secure it.
Go back to the center beginning and weave the tail in, and secure with felting kit by loosely felting into place.

OPTIONAL: I added a scrap piece of fabric to line the interior.
And Voila... a perfect fun basket to accent any table or room. You can get the full kit here to make your own.


Porto Cotton Tunic - Free Crochet Pattern

If you read my post about Cottons then you know Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton made the top 5. I am so excited to have teamed up with them to bring you the Porto Tunic. You can follow the free pattern below and get the kit here. And thank you so much Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this project!

This is one of my favorite designs. You can truly customize it to make it your own. Follow the instructions for a perfect Tee or add a few rows for a longer Tunic. Personally, I added even more rows and it is the perfect swimsuit cover up for the beach. I love how this one pattern is so versatile you can make it so many ways. And you can read about the design process for this super fun top here.

The instructions are written for size Extra Small (Sizes Small, Medium, Large, 1X/2Xin parentheses). If you would like a printable pdf of this pattern that includes stitch chart and schematics, you can buy one here or get the kit from Lion Brand.

GAUGE: 12 dc x 6 dc rows = 4” / 4 ch 5 groups x 7 rows in Net = 4”

Finished Measurements
Bust:   32 (36, 44, 50, 56)”

Supply List:
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
Main Color 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) Skeins
Contrast Color 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) Skeins
Crochet Hook Size I-9 / 5.5 mm
Tapestry needle to weave ends
Tape Measure
Fasteners or safety pins

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
ch – chain loop
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sl st – slip stitch

 

Make two identical panels:

porto_tunic_crochet_tee_pattern

MAIN COLOR:
Row 1: Fhdc x 45 (54, 66, 75, 84) turn.
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in first fhdc, * Ch 5, skip 2 fhdc, sc in next fhdc *, repeat * to * across until 2 fhdc remain then ch 2, end with dc in last fhdc, turn. 15 (18, 21, 24, 27) ch 5 groups.
Row 3: Ch 1 (does NOT act as a stitch), sc in last dc of previous row, * Ch 5, sc into next ch 5 group * repeat * to * across end with ch 2 then dc into sc of previous row start, turn. 15 (18, 21, 24, 27) ch 5 groups.
Rows 4 -8: Repeat Row 3.
Row 9: Ch 1 (does NOT act as a stitch), sc in last dc of previous row, * Ch 2, sc into 3 rd ch of next ch 5 group * repeat * to * across to end with ch 1 then dc into sc at beginning of previous row, turn.
Row 10: Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 1 hdc in ch 1 sp, * hdc in sc, 2 hdc in ch 2 sp * repeat * to * across to end, hdc in last sc, turn total 45 (54, 66, 75, 84) hdc incl ch 2.

SWITCH TO CONTRAST COLOR:
Rows 11 - 16:
Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 44 (53, 65, 74, 83)x hdc across for total 45 (54, 66, 75, 84) hdc incl ch 2.

SWITCH TO MAIN COLOR:
Row 17: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in first hdc, * Ch 5, skip 2 hdc, sc in next hdc *, repeat * to * across until 2 hdc remain then ch 2, end with dc in last hdc, turn. 15 (18, 21, 24, 27) ch 5 groups.
Rows 18-19: Repeat Row 3.

SWITCH TO CONTRAST COLOR:
Row 20: Ch 1 (does NOT act as a stitch), sc in last dc of previous row, * Ch 2, sc into 3 rd ch of next ch 5 group * repeat * to *across to end with ch 2 then dc into sc at beginning of previous row, turn.
Row 21: Ch 2 (acts as first dc), 1 dc in ch 1 sp, * dc in sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp * repeat * to * across to end, dc in last sc, turn total 45 (54, 66, 75, 84) dc incl ch 2.
Rows 22- 26: Ch 2 (acts as first dc), 44 (53, 65, 74, 83)x dc across for total 45 (54, 66, 75, 84) dc incl ch 2.

This is where you want to add rows for a longer garment. If you keep going from here and do not add rows it will look like the Blue & White Tee version above. If you add 2 rows here it will look like the Pink & Latte version above. if you add 4 rows it will look like the Gold & Ivory version. If you add 6 rows it will be like the Purple & Ivory version. So you can truly make this any length you want. I suggest following the pattern directly the first time to get an understanding of the dimensions. You may need more yarn depending on how many rows you add.

SWITCH TO MAIN COLOR:
Row 27: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in first dc, * Ch 5, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc *, repeat * to * across until 2 dc remain then ch 2, end with dc in last hdc, turn. 15 (18, 21, 24, 27) ch 5 groups.
Rows 28-29: Repeat Row 3. 

SWITCH TO CONTRAST COLOR:
Row 30: Ch 1 (does NOT act as a stitch), sc in last dc of previous row, * Ch 2, sc into 3 rd ch of next ch 5 group * repeat * to * across to end with ch 2 then dc into sc at beginning of previous row, turn.
Row 31: Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 1 hdc in ch 1 sp, * hdc in sc, 2 hdc in ch 2 sp * repeat * to * across to end, hdc in last sc, turn total 45 (54, 66, 75, 84) hdc incl ch 2.
Rows 32 - 36: Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 44 (53, 65, 74, 83)x hdc across for total 45 (54, 66, 75, 84) hdc incl ch 2.

Shaping arm and shoulder

SWITCH TO MAIN COLOR - Begin increase / shape arm / shoulders:
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in first hdc, * Ch 5, skip 2 hdc, sc in next hdc *, repeat * to * across until 2 hdc remain then ch 3, end with dc in last hdc, turn. 15 (18, 21, 24, 27) ch 5 groups.
Row 2: Ch 8, sc into ch 3, * Ch 5, sc into next ch 5 group * repeat * to * across then end with ch 5, dc into sc of previous row, turn. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28) ch 5 groups.
Row 3: Ch 8, sc into ch 5, * Ch 5, sc into next ch 5 group * repeat * to * across then end with ch 3, dc into third ch of ch 8 that started previous row, turn.
Rows 4 – 9 (9, 9, 11, 13): Repeat Rows 2 & 3, 3 (3, 3, 4, 5) times. 21, (24, 28, 33, 38) ch 5 groups.
Row 10 (10, 10, 12, 14): Ch 2 (does NOT act as a stitch), sc in ch 3 of previous row, * Ch 5, sc into next ch 5 group * repeat * to * across then end with ch 2, dc into third ch of ch 8 that started previous row, turn.
Row 11 (11, 11, 13, 15): Ch 1 (does NOT act as a stitch), sc in dc of previous row, * Ch 3, sc into 3 rd ch of next ch 5 group * repeat * to * across to end with ch 2 then dc into sc at beginning of previous row, turn.
Row 12 (12, 12, 14, 16): Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 2 hdc in ch 2 sp, * hdc in sc, 3 hdc in ch 3 sp * repeat * to * across, then end with hdc in last sc.

Fasten off.
Repeat to make second Panel.

Once you have both front and back panels complete - Block your pieces. It is really important to block before assembly - especially to prevent puckering when you assemble the netting portions. Read more about blocking here.


ASSEMBLY

Marry your two panels and this will now be INSIDE OUT.
Using your stitch markers or fasteners, pin the panels together in these two places on each side:
> One at Row 35 on each side where you begin contrast color to create armholes
> One at the bottom Row 4 of the netting

Then, beginning at the bottom Row 4, connect the panels with sl st or whip stitch up the seam.


When you get to the top fastener, fasten off.

Measure about 10 – 10.5” from shoulder in and pin the 2 panels together.
Seam shoulders together using Mattress Stitch method or whip stitch from the outside in to the fasteners.
This creates the boat neck as you will see the fabric relax.

TURN RIGHT SIDE OUT – weave in all ends and pat yourself on the back because you just made the Porto Tunic!

Ride Off Into The Sunset Wearing The Porto Tee

Ride Off Into The Sunset Wearing The Porto Tee

Don't forget you can buy the Kit from Lion Brand to make your Porto Tunic or you can download the pattern from my Etsy shop here.

Extreme Crochet Merino Barstool Pads

I have had the incredible joy collaboration with Sarah from Mama Knows Luxury. Read more about our collaboration here. As a result... I bring to you the Extreme Barstool Pattern and Kit. These are great because you can also use them as placemats to brighten up your summer tables.

Pops of Color at the Zion Coffee House


Add Pops of Color To Your Table

These are so fun to work up. You can make a set in fun brights like I did or a set to match your decor. If you want to ditch the hook, like I did, and hand crochet, check the video and tutorial here. And you can shop and get the kit to make your own Mama Knows Luxury Extreme Crochet here.

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet

 

 

Start with a magic circle. Now, because of the bulk of the wool, you want to create a SMALL magic circle and have a VERY short tail.


Round 1:  ch 1 then 5 sc into your magic circle,  do not JOIN the round
Round 2:  2sc in each sc of round 1
Round 3:  2sc in first sc of round 2, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* / Repeat * to * around until you have just about 4 inches of yarn left

 


Pull the end through by hand to secure.
Then hand weave the tail in.
Take your felting kit and hand felt the end to secure it.

And Voila! So fun and so quick and simple! Get the Kit to make your own here.

And a special shout out to my FAVORITE knitting spot, Zion Coffee House for allowing me to add pops of color and basically live there.

Inwood Summer Top

Thank you Wool & The Gang for providing the yarn for this design collaboration!

I am an avid beach goer. But I also like to walk about town and sometimes do it all the same day. So designing a quick top that could go over my swimsuit or over a tank was an essential for summer. And when I got my hands on Wool & The Gang Stone Wash... well heck yeah. It was time for an update to the old beach shrug. You can also make this with their new 100% vegan Tina Tape. It is airy, comfy and well, yeah I will be living in this even in the fall. It is kind of a great transitional piece. You may purchase an ad free version of this pattern here

 

Supply List:
Wool And The Gang Stone Wash or Tina Tape
740 (815, 900, 970, 1050) yds
Crochet Hook Size J / 6 mm
Tapestry needle to weave ends
Tape Measure
Fasteners or safety pins
Button or tag of choice

 


Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
fhdc- foundation half double crochet
ch - chain
sl st – slip stitch
tr – treble crochet
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – 2 hdc together

 

PATTERN NOTES:

This pattern is written for Adult Woman size Extra Small. (small, med, large, & 1X in parenthesis)
Block BEFORE assembly
Gauge:  4 inch sq =  9 sts x 3 rows treble crochet/ 9 sts x 5 rows = 4” in alternating rows of tr/hdc
Be sure to measure and to check your gauge and adjust hook size as needed
This top is crocheted from one side to the other in one piece.

OK.... here we go... and remember this is meant to be an open airy garment so be wary of snug stitching!

ROW 1: Fhdc x 80 (82, 82, 84, 84), turn.
ROW 2: Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 79 (81, 81, 83, 83) hdc, turn.
ROW 3: Ch 3 (acts as first tr), 79 (81, 81, 83, 83)x tr, turn.
ROWS 4 – 14: Repeat Rows 2 & 3 alternating, ending in repeat of Row 2.
ROWS 15 – 20: Ch 3 (acts as first tr), 39 (40, 40, 41)x tr, turn, leaving remaining stitches unworked.
ROW 21: Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 39 (40, 40, 41) hdc, 40 (41, 41, 42, 42) fhdc turn. 80 (82, 82, 84, 84) total stitches.
ROW 22: Ch 3 (acts as first tr), 79 (81, 81, 83, 83)x tr, turn.
ROW 23: Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 79 (81, 81, 83, 83) hdc, turn.
ROWS 24 – 34: Repeat Rows 22 & 23 alternating, ending in repeat of Row 22.
ROW 35: Ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 79 (81, 81, 83, 83) hdc, turn.
Fasten off – leaving longer tail for assembly.

The base fabric for your garment is now complete. Woohoo!
BLOCK BEFORE GOING TO ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLY
Fold your work in half, – this will be inside out now

 From the folded side:
Measure 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)”  and place pin
(This will be your arm hole)
Begin working from where the folded corners meet and work mattress stitch or sl st to marry the sides. Work up to your pin for the arm hole.
Fasten Off.

Repeat on the other side.
TURN RIGHT SIDE OUT

Pin front inside corners together at the last stitch on each. Round 1 below will be worked all the way around joining the entire front opening and along back.
Begin at the back center, attach your yarn then:

Round 1: Working all the way along first half of neck, down front, up the other front, and across back half of neck – ch 2 (acts as hdc), work 1 hdc for each st, 1 hdc in each hdc row, and [1 hdc, hdc2tog] for each tr row, total for round is 92 (94, 94, 96, 96) hdc, join with sl st to beg ch 2 to join.


Rounds 2 - 7: Ch 2, (acts as hdc), 91 (93, 93, 95, 95) x hdc around, sl st to ch 2 to complete round, / total for Round 92 (94, 94, 96, 96) hdc.

Fasten off.
Weave in all ends
Affix button or tag for decoration at front center where panels joined

All Year Cover Up - FREE Crochet Pattern

I LOVE this pattern. Legit LOVE! Let me just say that out loud. It is so versatile and multi functional. Just by changing fiber you can change it from a Fall Shawl to a Summer Beach Cover Up! Use a flower pin for a bit of contrast and fun. Make one from a lightweight cotton for the perfect summer beach accessory. This is the perfect travel accessory to get you from cold Chicago to warm Miami and keep you packed light!

Like I said, you can really make this pattern your own with whatever fiber you want. To get a good feel for it I suggest using the materials and following the pattern step by step before you customize it.


Supply List:
Worsted Weight Yarn – approx. 525 yrds
Lion Brand Wool Ease used in sample
Crochet Hook Size M / 9mm
Large needle to weave ends
Leather Cuff for band

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
Ch - chain
sc - Single Crochet
dc - Double Crochet
hdc – half double crochet
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
sl st – slip stitch


The Leather Cuff used in sample was purchased from Urban Gypsy Designs.
You can make your own or use another fabric but you want the stiff structure to keep shawl shape.

Pattern Gauge:
4” = 10 st (dc) x 4 rows
Adjust hook size if necessary to achieve gauge

Even when I change up the yarn I use, I still use the same size hook.

If you would like a printable pdf of this pattern you can purchase one here

 

BASE / Row 1: fhdc 130 (or to approx. 52 inches)
If you do not know fhdc, here is a tutorial:
http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com/blog/technique-tuesday-foundation-half-double-crochet

Alternatively if you do not know fhdc:
Ch 130 (or to approx. 52 inches)
Then ch 2 (counts as hdc), 129 hdc across for total 130 hdc including ch 2

Row 2 – 35:  ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each st across using back loop only, turn
total 130 DC each row, includes ch 2

Finished measurements:  52” x 35”  approximately

DO NOT CUT YARN when complete last row - you will go right to Assembly stitching

ASSEMBLY & FINISHING:

Fold garment in half lengthwise and pull loop that is on the hook through the opposite corner attaching them together

Then seam the two sides together:
sc x 46 across to make the seam
(Leave enough for the neck if you go further up than 46 sc on the seam)

Then sl st around the remaining edge where the neck hole will be
This is the finishing of the neck opening.
Slip Stitch back down the seam you just created with the 46 sc to the corner

Fasten off and weave in ends.

To attach cuff accessory:
Then take your cuff and “bunch up” the garment on the side across from the seam and place the cuff there.

Hampton Classic Ribbed Beanie - Free Knitting Pattern

As I started to develop my knit patterns I wanted to be sure to start with the classics and create a classic collection. Not because they are easy or to be simple but because... Ah the classics - I just love them!  So I worked very hard to create patterns that had that simple vibe but were elegant in style and still be fun to work up. I am thrilled how each came out. And here they are: My Classics Collection.

To kick things off I want to share a free pattern featuring one of my favorite yarns, Uptown Bulky by Universal Yarn. I love this yarn because it is bulky without "bulk". It works up so well and may in fact be one of the softest fibers I have ever used. Like EVER! They call it anti-pilling and it is. This stuff is my JAM! You will work this hat up super quick and have a classic for guys and gals!

 

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
co – cast on
(using long tail cast on method)
k – knit
p - purl
k2tog – knit two together
st - stitch

Supply List:
Bulky Category #6 yarn / approx. 70 yards
One skein Uptown Bulky by Universal Yarn
US 13 / 9mm 16” circular needle &
set of double pointed needles
Large needle to weave ends
Stitch Marker
Button or tag of choice

NOTES:
Gauge:  4 inch sq =  12 stitches x 12 rows
Be sure to measure and to check your gauge
Finished hat:
Brim Circumference 16.5”
stretches to fit 21 – 23” average adult head
Beanie Length 12” Approx

 You may purchase a PDF version of this pattern for a small fee here ($3)

 

CO 48; Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Round 1:  [k1,p1] to end
Rows 2-29: repeat Row 1
Once you reach desired hat body length, begin decrease:
Round 30: [k1, p1, k2tog] around – 36 sts remain
Round 31: [k1, k2tog]  around - 24 sts remain
switch to dpn
Round 32: [k2tog]  around - 12 sts remain
Round 33: [k2tog]  around - 6 sts remain

Pink Cat Hat Free Crochet Pattern

I had knitted up several Pink Pussy Hats for the Pussy Hat Project for the Women's March using a pattern from my friend Destiny at Knifty Knittings. But today, a crochet friend and former student of mine asked me for a crochet pattern. YIKES!  Crochet? OK... challenge accepted. So here you go: A quick, easy Pink Pussy Cat Hat Pattern. I worked this up in about 15 min. You can too!

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
ch - Chain
sc - Single Crochet
sl st - Slip Stitch
hdc - Half Double Crochet
 

Supply List:
Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick 1 skein
Crochet Hook Size Q / 15 mm
Large needle to weave ends

NOTE: You can go down a hook size to P or even N (10 mm) but then just add one hdc round after round 3 for the hat body and 2 sc rounds after row 7 on the hat body.


BAND:
Row 1: ch 7, turn; ch 1, 6 sc across
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 6x sc in back loop only
Rows 3 and on:  turn, ch 1, 6x sc in back loop only
Repeat row 3 until approx. 17” band - will stretch to 21" for average size adult head
(or desired width)

 

then at desired width:
Sl st to initial ch from first row, then 6 sl st across to attach the band to become a circle
DO NOT CUT YARN  // Turn band to side to now work the body

2017-01-20 20.19.49.jpg

BODY:
Round 1: ch 1, sc in same, then sc all way around band this will be 1:1 for your band rows;
then sl st to ch 1

Rounds 2 & 3: ch 2, hdc in each sc around; then sl st to ch 2
Rounds 4 - 7: ch 1, sc in same, then sc all way around; then sl st to ch 1
Row 8 - the final top seam: join the front and back

VOILA!  Enjoy!

Augustine Chunky Blanket Free Crochet Pattern

Ah - I was so excited when We Are Knitters wanted to collaborate on a blanket pattern. I mean just the thought of all that chunky squishy wool made my heart pitter patter with cozy vibes.

Then I had to decide to Knit or to crochet? It was not an easy choice. I have wanted to knit a throw for quite a while so it was a tough decision. But this blue reminded me so much of the rich tropical ocean, that it inspired me to do an open crochet variation of "shells" throw.

And I am in LOVE with how it came out!

Simplistic in design this throw blanket will work up very fast for you. And the breathability from the spaces make it just the right amount of cozy without being smothered in wool. Not that being smothered in wool is a bad thing :-)

Finished Throw: Approx 45" x 62" (standard throw size)
If you would like to purchase a printable version, you may do so here
let's get going ...


Supply List:
9 Balls of We Are Knitters The Wool
Crochet Hook Size 15 mm / Q
Large needle to weave ends
Tape Measure
Coffee (or tea if you prefer)

Gauge: 4” sq = 1 Shell x 2 shell rows (4 total rows)

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
ch – chain loop
sl st – slip stitch



ROW 1: fhdc x 79 (this is your width – should be approx. 45” across – be sure to measure to check your gauge.) If you do not know fhdc, Here is a link to a tutorial

ROW 2:  ch 1 and turn, then sc into same; Then *skip 2 fhdc, [5x dc in next fhdc], skip 2 fhdc, sc into next fhdc *; repeat* to * all the way across to end then only 1 sc into last fhdc

 ROW 3:  ch 3 and turn (acts as dc),* ch 2, skip 2 dc, then sc into 3rd dc,  ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc into sc *; repeat* to * all the way across ending with dc into last sc

ROW 4:  ch 1,  turn, then sc into same *skip 2 ch sp, [5x dc in next sc], skip 2 sc, sc into next dc *; repeat* to * all the way across to end then sc into 3rd ch sp of ch 5 that began previous row

ROWS 5 – 44: Repeat ROWS 3 & 4 

TECHNIQUE TIP: When you are changing balls of bulky yarn, use this felting technique to connect the two balls of yarn together. This will allow for seamless transition and less bulky bumps in your finished blanket.

Get the technique here
Or
watch All About Ami's video here

This will be a game changer for the look of your blanket

ROW 45:  Repeat ROW 3

ROW 46: ch 1, sc in each st across, Total for row is 78 sc (incl. ch 1)
Do NOT fasten off-  begin trim to finsih

TRIM:
***Begin where you end row 46***
ch1, turn (going back across widthwise)
sc across width:  Total for row is 79 sc (incl. ch 1)
corner: 3x hdc
hdc across length: 1x hdc in even rows fro above, 2x hdc in odd rows: Total for row is 135 hdc
corner: 3x hdc
sc across width: Total for row is 79 sc
corner: 3x hdc
hdc across length: 1x hdc in even rows fro above, 2x hdc in odd rows: Total for row is 135 hdc
corner: 3x hdc
sl st to ch 1

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Rare Creature Knit City Beanie (free pattern)

Oh hello warm fuzzy beanie! Using this exceptional Alpaca fiber from The Rare Creature, you can whip up this beanie in an afternoon. Great for beginner knitters. The beauty? You can add or remove rows in the body to make it as slouchy as you like. True customization to your own liking.

So grab yourself a cup of coffee, a ball of The Rare Creature Big Softy and make yourself one heck of a cozy beanie.  You can purchase a printable version of this pattern in my etsy shop here

NOTES:
Gauge:  4 inch sq =  8 stitches x 12 rows

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
k – knit
co – cast on (using long tail cast on method)
p - purl
k2tog – knit two together decrease
m1 - make 1 method add a stitch
st - stitch
 

Supply List:
Rare Creature Big Softy Yarn
1 Ball – 107 yards
US 13 / 9mm 16" circular needles &
set of double pointed needles
Large needle to weave ends
Stitch marker
Button or tag of choice for embellishment

 

CO 40; Place marker and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.

Round 1:  [k2,p2] to end

Rounds 2-9: repeat Row 1 (Ribbed Brim measures approx. 2” from CO brim)

Round 10:  k1, m1, k19, m1, k20 – 42 sts.

Round 11 – 20: Knit all St (Stockinette St) (or to desired body length)

Once you reach desired hat body length, begin decrease:

Round 21: [k5, k2tog] around – 36 sts remain

Round 22: knit / 36 stitches / Stockinette St

Round 23: [k4, k2tog]  around - 30 sts remain

Round 24: knit / 36 st / Stockinette St

Round 25: [k3, k2tog]  around - 24 sts remain

Round 26: [k2, k2tog]  around - 18 sts remain

Round 27: [k1, k2tog]  around - 12 sts remain

Round 28: knit / 12 stitches / Stockinette St

Round 29: [k2tog]  around - 6 sts remain

Using needle, weave in tail through the remaining 6 stitches to close up hat peak. Weave in ends using cast on tail to attach button or tag.

Take Refuge In A Super Scarf: FREE Pattern

I had seen the emails and social media posts. Super Size Super Scarves seem to be all over. Now, I am a tiny gal at only 5'1" so I wasn't to sure about this trend and if I was ready to jump on board. Then the fine folks at Boye Yarn Crafts reached out to me to collaborate and participate in their Super Scarf Blog Hop and I thought, yes... count me IN!

I selected a chunky vibrant purple yarn called Wool Up Bulky from Bernat and big furry pom pom balls for trim and planned to do a super sized basket weave scarf. This purple is so bright I just love looking at it! But as I started swatching, I let the yarn tell me what to do and it screamed make me a puff stitch scarf. So I did! Frogged the basket weave and started over and just love it.

This scarf works up super quick. Now for me, I didn't want a super wide and super long scarf. So I kept it about 7" width. If you want to go wider you can and you will see it is very easy once you get the rhythm of the pattern. I am beyond thrilled with the final result and had so much fun making it. It was the perfect project for a cool breezy fall afternoon. This pattern is free below, but if you would like a printable version with the chart you can grab it on my site or in my etsy shop.

This pattern can easily be worked up in an afternoon! Enjoy! And thank you Boye for inviting me to the Super Scarf blog hop!

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
fhdc- foundation half double crochet
ch - Chain

sc - Single Crochet
hdc – half double crochet
ps- Puff Stitch

Supply List:
Approx. 480 yards - Bernat Wool Up Bulky
Crochet Hook Size Q / 15 mm
4x Large Bernat faux fur pom poms
Large needle to weave ends

Puff Stitch (PS) :
Wrap yarn over hook; insert hook into ch sp, wrap yarn over hook & pull through leaving 3 loops on hook
Wrap yarn over hook; insert hook into same ch sp, wrap yarn over hook & pull through leaving 5 loops on hook
Wrap yarn over hook; insert hook into same ch sp, wrap yarn over hook & pull through leaving 7 loops on hook
Wrap yarn over hook and pull through ALL 7 loops to create the “puff” stitch

Gauge: 6.25 pattern sts x 3 rows = 4” sq
Finished Garment: 106” x 7”

ROW 1: fhdc x11
Alternatively if you do not know fhdc:
- ch 11, then turn
- ch 2, 10x hdc all the way across/ Total for row is 11 hdc (incl. ch 2)

ROW 2: ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 10x hdc in back loop only all way across, turn / Total for row is 11 hdc (incl. ch 2)

ROW 3:  ch 2 (acts as first hdc), *PS in next hdc, ch 1, skip hdc* repeat from * to * 3 more times, PS in next hdc, dc in last hdc, turn (total of 5 PS for row)

ROW 4:  ch 3 (acts as first dc plus ch 1), skip next PS, * PS into next ch 1 sp, ch 1, skip next PS* repeat from * to * 3 more times, dc in last hdc, turn (total of 4 PS for row)

ROW 5: ch 2 (acts as first dc), *PS, ch 1, skip PS* repeat from * to * 3 more times, PS in next ch sp, dc in ch 2 of ch 3 that began previous row, turn (total of 5 PS for row)

ROWS 6 – 15: Repeat rows 4 & 5 alternating
ROW 16: ch 2, 10 hdc across / Total for row is 11 hdc (incl. ch 2)
ROW 17: ch 2, 10 hdc * in BACK loop only * all way across
Total for row is 11 hdc (incl. ch 2)

Repeat Rows 2 – 17 4 (FOUR) times
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Add Pom Poms at each corner.

 

See some of the other amazing Projects in this #BoyeSuperScarfBlogHop here
Bethany from Whistle And Ivy
 Jess from Make & Do Crew

Oh Ella! FREE HOODIE PATTERN

When I was first creating my own patterns I was also having a mild love affair with the classic granny square and ways to give it a new spin. That combination led me to Ella - my first hoodie scarf. Ella has been one f my bigger sellers over the years and is great because you can truly play with color. So many football moms order the Ella in team colors for Football Season. I have retired the Ella from my shop so why not pass along the pattern. If you would like a charted breakdown of this pattern and printable version you may purchase it here for $3 or in my Etsy Pattern Shop.

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
fhdc- foundation half double crochet
fdc- foundation double crochet
ch - Chain
sc - Single Crochet
dc- double crochet
hdc – half double crochet

 

Supply List:
DK or Worsted Weight #4 Yarn
Color A: Black – 810 yrds total
Color B: Steel Grey – 350 yrds total
Color C: White – 350 yrds total
Crochet Hook Size L
Tapestry needle to weave ends
Tape Measure
Fasteners or safety pins


The beauty of this pattern that once you get the rhythm of the rows you will find it is the kind of pattern yo can do without even thinking. So easy!

NOTE: There is no gauge for this pattern because you will meet a specific measurement. If you find you want a longer "wrap" or more scarf length, you can add to your base rows in multiples of four (4). Begin with the Scarf Body.

BEGIN WITH COLOR C:
ROW 1: fdc x112 (or to measure 46” in multiples of 4, then plus 2 for base)
(Here is a free tutorial if you do not know fdc)

Alternatively if you do not know fdc:
- ch 112, then turn(or to measure 46” in multiples of 4, then plus 2 for base)
- ch 2, 111x dc all the way across/ Total for row is 112 dc (incl. ch 2)

ROW 2: ch 2 (acts as first dc), [2x dc, ch 1, 3x dc, ch 1, 3xdc]  around last fdc of base row - (not INTO the stitch - this is very important as you will be creating the overall base look and corner for the garment);
Then: *Ch 1, skip fdc, dc, dc, dc* ; Repeat* to * all way across finishing with Ch 1, skip fdc
[3x dc, ch 1, 3x dc, ch 1, 3x dc]  around last fdc of base row - (not INTO the stitch);
Then: *Ch 1, skip fdc, dc, dc, dc* ; Repeat* to * all way across finishing with Ch 1
Then sl st to top of ch 2 that started row, fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR B
ROW 3:  beginning toward the center of your fabric in one of the ch 1 from Row 2;
Ch 2, 2x dc in same ch 1 space; * ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into last ch 1 space of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, into next ch 1 space of row 2: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into last ch 1 space of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, into next ch 1 space of row 2: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across then hdc into top of ch 2 to connect the row

ROW 4:  Ch 2, 2x dc in same (around hdc); * ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space , then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space , then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row, fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR A
ROW 5: Ch 2, 2x dc in same ch 1 space; * ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across then hdc into top of ch 2 to connect the row

ROW 6:  Ch 2, 2x dc in same (around hdc); * ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, skip 3 dc, ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space, then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row

ROW 7:  Ch 2, dc all the way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across, then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row

ROW 8:  Ch 2, hdc all the way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across, then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row
Fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR B

ROW 9:  Ch 2, hdc all the way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across, then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row
Fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR C

ROW 10:  Ch 2, hdc all the way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x hdc ch 2, 3x hdc], hdc all way across, then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row
Fasten off color

Set the scarf body aside and now create TWO identical panels for the hood. Hood Panels:

 

COLOR C:
ROW 1: fhdc x10 - approx 5" (Here is a link to a free tutorial)

Alternatively if you do not know fhdc:
- ch 10, then turn
- ch 2, 9x hdc all the way across/ Total for row is 10 hdc (incl. ch 2)

ROW 2: ch 2 (acts as first dc), 2x dc, ch 1, 3x dc, ch 1, 3xdc]  around last fdc of base row - (not INTO the stitch)
Then * ch 1, skip a hdc space,  dc, dc, dc *
Repeat* to * all way across then, across finishing with Ch 1, skip fhdc
Then: [3x dc, ch 1, 3x dc, ch 1, 3x dc]  around last fdc of base row - (not INTO the stitch);
Then: *Ch 1, skip fhdc, dc, dc, dc* ; Repeat* to * all way across finishing with Ch 1
Then sl st to top of ch 2 that started row, fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR B
ROW 3:  beginning toward the center of your fabric in one of the ch 1 from Row 2;
Ch 2, 2x dc in same ch 1 space; * ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into last ch 1 space of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, into next ch 1 space of row 2: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into last ch 1 space of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, into next ch 1 space of row 2: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across then sl st into top of ch 2 to connect the row, Fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR A
ROW 4:  Ch 2, 2x dc in same; * ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space , then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], ch 1, 3x dc into next ch 1 space , then into ch 2 space at end of row [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc]
* ch 1, skip 3 dc, then 3x dc into next ch 1 space of previous row*
Repeat* to * all way across then sl st to top of ch 2 that started row

ROW 5:  Ch 2, dc all the way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [3x dc ch 2, 3x dc], dc all way across, then sl st to top of ch 2 that started row

ROW 6:  Ch 2, hdc all the way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 2 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across , then sl st to top of ch 2 that started row
Fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR B
ROW 7:  Ch 2, hdc all the way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across , then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row
Fasten off color

CHANGE TO COLOR C
ROW 8:  Ch 2, hdc all the way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across
Then into ch 1 space at end of row: [2x hdc ch 1, 2x hdc], hdc all way across , then sl st to sop of ch 2 that started row
Fasten off color


Woo Hoo! You made the 3 panels. Let's assemble and put this baby together. ASSEMBLY:

Measure the scarf body end to end and place a stitch marker in the center on the outside row 10

Begin with hood

  1. Turn Panels right side down. Using fasteners or safety pins, line up corners and fasten together on 2 sides
  2. Using COLOR C: Whip Stitch together up one side and across the other in an L shape

To ensure smooth assembly, be sure to only go through the loop of the hdc on the “inside” – the wrong side

  1. Attach the center of the hood to the body using a safety pin or fastener at the center*****BE SURE TO MARRY WRONG SIDE TO WRONG SIDE
  2. Using COLOR C: Whip Stitch together across end to end of the hood

Now that it is assembled it is time to add some finishing. 


USING COLOR C
Starting at any point on the bottom of the scarf body (opposite of where the hood is attached)
Ch 2, hdc all the way across
Corner: [3x hdc ch 1, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Corner: [3x hdc ch 1, 3x hdc], hdc all way across 

Inverted: Hood Corner: 2 hdc tog at point where hood and scarf body meet
hdc all way across & around frame of hood

Second Inverted: Hood Corner: 2 hdc tog at point where hood and scarf body meet
hdc all way across
Corner: [3x hdc ch 1, 3x hdc], hdc all way across
Corner: [3x hdc ch 1, 3x hdc], hdc all way across, sl st to top of ch 2, fasten off color

2016-08-23 09.33.05.jpg

WEAVE IN ALL ENDS


Add a button at one of the hood corners for secure front closure.  This is such a great pattern for crocheters of all levels and everyone just loves these. Don't forget: If you would like a charted breakdown of this pattern and printable version you may purchase it here for $3 or in my Etsy Pattern Shop.

 

FREE Team Beanie Crochet Pattern

IMG_7768.JPG

It's been a while since I have posted a new pattern and since football season is right around the corner, how about the Team Beanie pattern. Super easy and you can make this in any team colors you like, or even solid colors if you are like me and not a sports fan :-)

Since I am in Chicago, Bears colors shown :-)

Stitches Used / Abbreviations:
ch - Chain
sc - Single Crochet
hdc – Half Double Crochet
dc- Double Crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Supply List:
Worsted weight yarn – #4
Main Color:  approx 100 yds

Color B:  approx. 20 yrds
Color C:  approx. 35 yrds
Crochet Hook Size H
/ 5 mm
Large needle to weave ends


Start with a magic loop. If you do not know how to do a magic loop but want to learn, there are some great tutorials on youtube. If you do not want to use a magic loop you can chain 3 and slip stitch together. Either in your magic loop or your chain circle:

 *** work in one continuous direction. do NOT turn your work***

MAIN COLOR
Round 1:    ch 2 (acts as your first hdc), 9 hdc, sl st to top of ch 2//  Total for Round 1 is 10 hdc (including ch 2)

Round 2:    ch 2 (acts as your first dc),  work 2 dc in each st, all way around, sl st to top of ch 2 / Total for Round 2 is 20 dc (including ch 2)

Round 3:    ch 2 (acts as your first dc) 2 dc in next st, * dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* , repeat * to * all way around, sl st to top of ch 2, Total for Round 3 is 30 dc (including ch 2)  

Round 4:    ch 2 (acts as your first dc) 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* , repeat * to * all way around,  sl st to top of ch 2 / Total for 4 is 40 dc (including ch 2)

Round 5:    ch 2 (acts as your first dc) 1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st   * dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to *  all way around, sl st to top of ch 2 / Total for Round 5 is 50 dc (including ch 2) 

Round 6:    ch 2 (acts as your first dc) 1 dc in next 3 st 2 dc in next st   * dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in next st*, repeat * to *  all way around, sl st to top of ch 2 / Total for Row 6 is 60 dc (including ch 2)

Rounds 7-11: ch 2 (acts as first dc), 1 dc all way around, sl st to top of ch 2 // Total for Each Round is 60 dc
Fasten Off Main Color A

COLOR B:
Round 14:   ch 2, (acts as first hdc), 1 hdc all way around, sl st to top of ch 2 // Total for Round is 60 hdc
Fasten OffColor B

COLOR C:
Rounds 15 – 16
: ch 2 (acts as first hdc), 1 hdc all way around, sl st to top of ch 2 // Total for Round Row is 60 hdc

Round 17: ch 1, loosely 1 sc all way around, sl st to top of ch 1 // Total for Round 17 is 60 sc
Fasten off and weave in ends.